Ben Holladay Bottled-in-Bond Bourbon

When you think of Missouri, do you think, bourbon? Probably not, but you soon might. The Holladay Distillery has a history stretching back to 1856. Recently resurrected, this is the brand’s flagship expression, aged 6 years on the 1st and 5th floors of a 7-story clad rickhouse.

Pour: Ben Holladay Bottled-in-Bond Bourbon
Proof: 100
Age: 6 years
Color: copper
Nose: caramel popcorn, brown sugar, cinnamon
Taste: toasted vanilla, English toffee, charred oak
Finish: moderately long w/ burnt sugar, clove, peppery spice

Overall: When I say Ben Holladay is good whiskey, I mean it’s really good whiskey. Not just “good for craft” or “good for cocktails,” but genuinely good. Frankly, I’m a bit taken aback. The level of complexity and sheer enjoyability is first-rate.

Rating: Showed-me bourbon.

Bottle courtesy of Holladay Distillery.

Jack Daniel’s Bottled in Bond

When you hear the words “bottled in bond,” do you think Jack Daniel’s? Didn’t think so. Believe it or not, Jack Daniel’s has a bottled-in-bond expression. It’s just exclusive to travel-retail outlets. Will it prove a notable step up from the 80-proof Old No. 7? Very likely.

Pour: Jack Daniel’s Bottled in Bond
Proof: 100
Age: not stated (at least 4 years)
Color: rich amber
Nose: toasted banana, creme brulee, faint spice
Taste: mild vanilla, honey-pear, nutmeg
Finish: moderately long w/ custard, barrel char, cinnamon toast

Overall: As predicted, a notch above your everyday Jack Daniel’s but that’s about it. Profile-wise, there’s very little in terms of uniqueness – not much of a boost in complexity either. Still, a decent pour, and for $38 a liter who’s complaining?

Rating: Old No. 7.1

Jim Beam Bottled in Bond (1976 export)

Having recently reviewed a 1977 Jim Beam White Label, as well as a modern iteration, I figured I’d strike while the iron was hot and review a 1976 export. Curiously, this whiskey is bottled in bond at 86 proof. Uncommon nowadays, but allowable by law. Sláinte! (export cheers)

Pour: 1976 Jim Beam Bottled in Bond Bourbon (export)
Proof: 86
Age: 5 years
Color: amber rose
Nose: butterscotch, apple cider, frosted pastry
Taste: vanilla candy, butterscotch drizzle, light oak
Finish: moderately short – caramel, candied pear, faint spice

Overall: I’ll have to admit, I’m a little disappointed. While far tastier than today’s Beam, it’s a notable step down from the 1977 80-proof domestic bottling. I can only assume the bottled-in-bond “one season” clause limits the batch to younger bourbon.

Rating: One-trick dusty.

Henry McKenna Single Barrel

Henry McKenna Single Barrel, also known as McKenna Bottled in Bond, McKenna 10, and Ascot Gold. Once an inexpensive and attainable bottle ($25 in 2015) … Good times, Minnick, good times. I’ve had great barrels and so-so barrels, but never one worth chasing. Let’s revisit.

Pour: Henry McKenna Single Barrel (b. 9105, 3-19-08)
Proof: 100
Age: 10 years
Color: rich honey
Nose: German chocolate cake, brown sugar, faint citrus
Taste: toasted caramel, English toffee, baked nutmeg
Finish: moderately long – dense oak, maple syrup, sweet tobacco

Overall: Well now, this is one beast of a pour. Henry McKenna Single Barrel is hitting all the right notes for me today. And German chocolate cake? Are you kidding me?! I don’t think I’ve ever sensed that note on a whiskey. Have to say, worth the $60 paid.

Rating: Fred’s Savage.