Bardstown Bourbon Co. Fusion Series No. 2

Bardstown Bourbon Co. have made a name for themselves in the last few years. Having tried several of their sourced and finished expressions, as well as their distillate and two-year maturate, I can attest to their quality. But what about a blend of both worlds? Enter Fusion.

Pour: Bardstown Bourbon Co. Fusion Series No. 2
Proof: 98.9
Age: 34 months (2-12-year KSBW)
Color: rich amber
Nose: Vanilla Tootsie Roll, roasted almonds, orange peel
Taste: light caramel, melted butter, mild spice
Finish: moderately short – toasted oak, nutty toffee, citrus

Overall: I’m torn with this bourbon. There’s a part of me that genuinely appreciates the experimentation aspect – a blend of young and old, distilled and sourced. But then, there’s nothing unique or noteworthy happening to justify Fusion’s $60 price.

Rating: Getting there.

New Riff Single Barrel Rye

I’ve been a fan of New Riff’s bourbon for some time now. What they can do in a handful of years is remarkable. Until today, I’ve yet to experience their straight rye whiskey, and I’m doing so with their single-barrel expression, bottled NCF at full barrel proof. Cue the riff!

Pour: New Riff Single Barrel KY Straight Rye Whiskey 16-2074
Proof: 105.2
Age: 4 years
Color: amber
Nose: apple, honey-butter, lemon zest, floral spice
Taste: cake frosting, lemon-lime soda, hints of ginger
Finish: moderately long – toffee drizzle, peppery oak, faint leather

Overall: A zesty, enjoyable Kentucky rye. While there’s a trace of youth here, it’s not at all distracting. In fact, I’d argue the vibrancy enhances its character. New Riff Single Barrel Rye is flavorful, sips its proof, and as such, gets my recommendation.

Rating: Refreshing.

Benchmark “Old No. 8” Bourbon

Benchmark is one of two brands acquired by Sazerac from Seagram’s in the 1980s (the other being Eagle Rare). Today, it’s distilled by Buffalo Trace and is commonly found for less than $10 in liquor stores nationwide. Sounds like a deal, right? Don’t get your hopes up just yet.

Pour: Benchmark “Old No. 8” Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey
Proof: 80
Age: 36 months
Color: straw
Nose: margarine, strawberry Greek yogurt, apple juice
Taste: canned corn, sour pears, pasteboard
Finish: not short enough – Lemon Pledge, sadness

Overall: Rarely can I not finish a bourbon. Benchmark is one such pour. Yes, it’s labeled “Kentucky straight,” but three years in oak just doesn’t cut it here. It’s thin, youthful, oddly sour, and unpleasant. If this is a benchmark of whiskey, I’m Tom Handy.

Rating: Gag Jr.

Old Carter Rye Batch 5

I had the pleasure of meeting Mark and Sherri Carter in the Spring of 2019. Warm-hearted folks with a genuine appreciation for exceptional whiskey and wine. I tasted four of their releases and quickly realized their talents. Here’s 2020’s Old Carter Rye (Indiana) batch 5.

Pour: Old Carter Straight Rye Whiskey batch 5
Proof: 115.5
Age: at least 4 years
Color: rosy copper
Nose: tangelo peel, fruity caramel, mint tea, dill
Taste: tart fruit cocktail, dense herbal spice, citrus punch
Finish: long & zesty – tangy oak, orange-vanilla frosting, white pepper

Overall: There are countless Indiana (MGP) straight rye whiskeys on the market today. Due to youth or imperfect barrel selection, the grand majority pale in comparison to Old Carter Rye batch 5. The downside is its $199 price tag, but I don’t regret a penny.

Rating: Delightful.

Larceny Barrel Proof B520

When Larceny Barrel Proof was first announced, whiskey fans went nuts. A barrel-proof 6-8-year wheated bourbon? Sounds like a winner, right? In a world of Pappymania, you’d think. Unfortunately, Heaven Hill has seldom shone in the wheated department. Maybe batch B520 will.

Pour: Larceny Barrel Proof Bourbon B520
Proof: 122.2
Age: NAS (reportedly 6-8 years)
Color: dense copper
Nose: toasted butterscotch, oak char, brown sugar
Taste: nutty vanilla, roasted marshmallow, black licorice
Finish: moderately long – salted peanuts, English toffee, sassafras

Overall: I hate to label this as a one-trick pony, but inevitably, that’s what Larceny Barrel Proof B520 is. Not that it’s a boring bourbon. It’s just a handful of similar notes trekking and trotting within a hefty, yet easily sippable high-ABV whiskey.

Rating: Bold Fitz.

Bulleit Blenders’ Select No. 001

Is it Four Roses or something altogether different? At this point, I’ve wasted too much of my time trying to figure out what Bulleit puts into their bottles to care. As for their Blenders’ Select No. 001, it’s a marriage of three bourbons crafted by the talented Eboni Major.

Pour: Bulleit Bourbon Blenders’ Select No. 001
Proof: 100
Age: at least 4 years
Color: copper
Nose: buttercream icing, orange creamsicle, sweet tea
Taste: fruity caramel, zesty charred oak, citrus & herbal spice
Finish: moderate length – vanilla cream soda, orange peel, nutmeg

Overall: This is one of those whiskeys that really grows on you. Initially, I was satisfied. Then I was impressed. Each time since, Bulleit Blenders’ Select has never wavered. It’s a stealthy, sharp-shooting bourbon that belongs in every enthusiast’s arsenal.

Rating: Bullseye.

Jack Daniel’s Single Barrel Barrel Proof Rye

Several days ago, I reviewed Jack Daniel’s Single Barrel Barrel Proof, an excellent TN Whiskey (BOURBON). Today, I’m giving Jack Daniel’s “Special Release” Barrel Proof Rye a go. I’ve heard nothing but good things – different levels of good, but good nonetheless. Let’s pour!

Pour: Jack Daniel’s SiB Barrel Proof Rye 20-06941
Proof: 131.9
Age: not stated
Color: deep rosy copper
Nose: hummingbird cake, vanilla pudding, blood orange
Taste: rye pancakes, thick molasses, boozy citrus
Finish: long & intense – dark-fruity caramel, lemon-pepper, holiday spice

Overall: Folks, this is a grand slam. The viscosity, the depth, the complexity, the balance … it carries it effortlessly at a remarkably palatable 131.9 proof. It’s a single-barrel release, so there’s always that; but, if you see this rye don’t sleep on it.

Rating: Outstanding.

Woodford Reserve Very Fine Rare Bourbon

Woodford Reserve is a brand I seldom discuss. The reason is straightforward: I’m simply not a fan of their bourbon. But when trusted friends with well-versed palates recommend a whiskey, I listen. And so, I found myself investing in Woodford Reserve’s Very Fine Rare. Here goes.

Pour: Woodford Reserve Very Fine Rare Bourbon
Proof: 90.4
Age: NAS (reportedly 4-17 years)
Color: dense copper
Nose: cast iron cornbread, floral honey, Toblerone chocolate
Taste: vanilla extract, tart oak, semisweet molasses
Finish: moderate length – caramel, coffee, smoky citrus

Overall: I’m not completely sold on this bourbon, though it’s a pleasantly fascinating, commendable head-scratcher. There’s a lot to chew on here. Woodford’s Very Fine Rare doesn’t check all the boxes I prefer, but damn if it doesn’t check some curious ones.

Rating: Intriguing.

Wilderness Trail Settlers Select Rye

I was first introduced to Wilderness Trail in early 2019 with their bottled-in-bond bourbon. While a solid whiskey for the age (one I’ll revisit soon), it wasn’t a bottle I made immediate plans to purchase. But rye … wonders can be done in four years. So, I rolled the dice.

Pour: Wilderness Trail Settlers Select Rye (b. 15121)
Proof: 115
Age: 4 years
Color: rich amber
Nose: lemon squares, vanilla frosting, citrus tea
Taste: “prickly” caramel drizzle, herbal spice, sweet mint
Finish: moderately long – singed orange peel, clove gum, bright pepper

Overall: To classify Wilderness Trail Settlers Select Rye as impressive is merely scratching the surface. This is an incredibly tasty, high-quality whiskey. Not a hint of one note I’d consider typical craft; not an ounce of regret buying this bottle.

Rating: So damn good.

J. P. Wiser’s Rye

I spotted a J. P. Wiser’s Blended Canadian Rye 50ml mini bottle at my local bottle shop the other day and thought, why not? I’ve been continually impressed with Dr. Don, and Lot 40 Cask Strength is amazing. J. P. Wiser’s Rye should at least be solid, right? We shall see.

Pour: J. P. Wiser’s Blended Canadian Rye Whisky
Proof: 80
Age: not stated
Color: straw
Nose: dried apricot, pear, honeydew melon
Taste: lemon icing, cake batter, freshly cut pine
Finish: moderately short – fruit rollup, bitter-sour “zing,” astringent oak

Overall: Not exactly what I was expecting. Manageable, yet not very pleasant all the same. I’m no Canadian whisky expert, but I’m assuming J. P. Wiser’s Rye is an everyday mixing whisky. Even if, with that finish you might want to venture out a bit.

Rating: Seek wiser options.

Joseph Magnus Triple-Cask Finished Bourbon

Joseph Magnus Triple-Cask Finished Bourbon is the flagship expression of Jos. A. Magnus & Co., a DC-based brand resurrected by descendants of the historic Cincinnati whiskey wholesaler. The talented Nancy Fraley, master taster, is responsible for each blend. On deck, batch 96.

Pour: Joseph Magnus Triple-Cask Finished Bourbon no. 96
Proof: 100
Age: NAS (reportedly 12 years)
Color: rosy amber
Nose: chocolate raisins, nutty vanilla, blood orange
Taste: toasted brown sugar, ripe plum, pipe tobacco
Finish: caramel-brandy, black walnut, lingering smoky leather

Overall: Delicious. For a finished whiskey, Joseph Magnus maintains enough bourbon character to brandish its 12-year (MGP) origin. Not “over-sherried,” and gentle on the cognac influence, it’s notably complex, harmonious and balanced. Well done, Nancy.

Rating: Fraley’s Comet.

Four Roses Small Batch Select

In 2019, Four Roses debuted its first core expression since 2006, Four Roses Small Batch Select. Composed of six of the distillery’s ten signature recipes and bottled at 104 proof (NCF), it was virtually a success before hitting a single shelf. It’s 2021; let’s check in.

Pour: Four Roses Small Batch Select
Proof: 104
Age: NAS (reportedly 6-7 years)
Color: copper
Nose: fruity vanilla, citrus zest, sweet herbal tea
Taste: peppery caramel, orange peel, honey-esque oak
Finish: moderately long – frosted sugar cookies, oak char, earthy/floral spice

Overall: Filling Jim Rutledge’s shoes can’t be easy, but master distiller Brent Elliott sure makes it look that way. Granted, we’re still sipping bourbon distilled under Jim’s care, but the batch itself is on point and checks every box it should for $55.

Rating: It’s great.