Benchmark “Old No. 8” Bourbon

Benchmark is one of two brands acquired by Sazerac from Seagram’s in the 1980s (the other being Eagle Rare). Today, it’s distilled by Buffalo Trace and is commonly found for less than $10 in liquor stores nationwide. Sounds like a deal, right? Don’t get your hopes up just yet.

Pour: Benchmark “Old No. 8” Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey
Proof: 80
Age: 36 months
Color: straw
Nose: margarine, strawberry Greek yogurt, apple juice
Taste: canned corn, sour pears, pasteboard
Finish: not short enough – Lemon Pledge, sadness

Overall: Rarely can I not finish a bourbon. Benchmark is one such pour. Yes, it’s labeled “Kentucky straight,” but three years in oak just doesn’t cut it here. It’s thin, youthful, oddly sour, and unpleasant. If this is a benchmark of whiskey, I’m Tom Handy.

Rating: Gag Jr.

Larceny Barrel Proof B520

When Larceny Barrel Proof was first announced, whiskey fans went nuts. A barrel-proof 6-8-year wheated bourbon? Sounds like a winner, right? In a world of Pappymania, you’d think. Unfortunately, Heaven Hill has seldom shone in the wheated department. Maybe batch B520 will.

Pour: Larceny Barrel Proof Bourbon B520
Proof: 122.2
Age: NAS (reportedly 6-8 years)
Color: dense copper
Nose: toasted butterscotch, oak char, brown sugar
Taste: nutty vanilla, roasted marshmallow, black licorice
Finish: moderately long – salted peanuts, English toffee, sassafras

Overall: I hate to label this as a one-trick pony, but inevitably, that’s what Larceny Barrel Proof B520 is. Not that it’s a boring bourbon. It’s just a handful of similar notes trekking and trotting within a hefty, yet easily sippable high-ABV whiskey.

Rating: Bold Fitz.

Bulleit Blenders’ Select No. 001

Is it Four Roses or something altogether different? At this point, I’ve wasted too much of my time trying to figure out what Bulleit puts into their bottles to care. As for their Blenders’ Select No. 001, it’s a marriage of three bourbons crafted by the talented Eboni Major.

Pour: Bulleit Bourbon Blenders’ Select No. 001
Proof: 100
Age: at least 4 years
Color: copper
Nose: buttercream icing, orange creamsicle, sweet tea
Taste: fruity caramel, zesty charred oak, citrus & herbal spice
Finish: moderate length – vanilla cream soda, orange peel, nutmeg

Overall: This is one of those whiskeys that really grows on you. Initially, I was satisfied. Then I was impressed. Each time since, Bulleit Blenders’ Select has never wavered. It’s a stealthy, sharp-shooting bourbon that belongs in every enthusiast’s arsenal.

Rating: Bullseye.

Woodford Reserve Very Fine Rare Bourbon

Woodford Reserve is a brand I seldom discuss. The reason is straightforward: I’m simply not a fan of their bourbon. But when trusted friends with well-versed palates recommend a whiskey, I listen. And so, I found myself investing in Woodford Reserve’s Very Fine Rare. Here goes.

Pour: Woodford Reserve Very Fine Rare Bourbon
Proof: 90.4
Age: NAS (reportedly 4-17 years)
Color: dense copper
Nose: cast iron cornbread, floral honey, Toblerone chocolate
Taste: vanilla extract, tart oak, semisweet molasses
Finish: moderate length – caramel, coffee, smoky citrus

Overall: I’m not completely sold on this bourbon, though it’s a pleasantly fascinating, commendable head-scratcher. There’s a lot to chew on here. Woodford’s Very Fine Rare doesn’t check all the boxes I prefer, but damn if it doesn’t check some curious ones.

Rating: Intriguing.

Joseph Magnus Triple-Cask Finished Bourbon

Joseph Magnus Triple-Cask Finished Bourbon is the flagship expression of Jos. A. Magnus & Co., a DC-based brand resurrected by descendants of the historic Cincinnati whiskey wholesaler. The talented Nancy Fraley, master taster, is responsible for each blend. On deck, batch 96.

Pour: Joseph Magnus Triple-Cask Finished Bourbon no. 96
Proof: 100
Age: NAS (reportedly 12 years)
Color: rosy amber
Nose: chocolate raisins, nutty vanilla, blood orange
Taste: toasted brown sugar, ripe plum, pipe tobacco
Finish: caramel-brandy, black walnut, lingering smoky leather

Overall: Delicious. For a finished whiskey, Joseph Magnus maintains enough bourbon character to brandish its 12-year (MGP) origin. Not “over-sherried,” and gentle on the cognac influence, it’s notably complex, harmonious and balanced. Well done, Nancy.

Rating: Fraley’s Comet.

Four Roses Small Batch Select

In 2019, Four Roses debuted its first core expression since 2006, Four Roses Small Batch Select. Composed of six of the distillery’s ten signature recipes and bottled at 104 proof (NCF), it was virtually a success before hitting a single shelf. It’s 2021; let’s check in.

Pour: Four Roses Small Batch Select
Proof: 104
Age: NAS (reportedly 6-7 years)
Color: copper
Nose: fruity vanilla, citrus zest, sweet herbal tea
Taste: peppery caramel, orange peel, honey-esque oak
Finish: moderately long – frosted sugar cookies, oak char, earthy/floral spice

Overall: Filling Jim Rutledge’s shoes can’t be easy, but master distiller Brent Elliott sure makes it look that way. Granted, we’re still sipping bourbon distilled under Jim’s care, but the batch itself is on point and checks every box it should for $55.

Rating: It’s great.

Old Forester Bourbon

Old Forester is a heritage Kentucky brand that’s garnered significant attention over the last few years, primarily because of their Whiskey Row series and the exemplary work of master taster Jackie Zykan. But how does their 86-proof namesake bourbon fare? Please, allow me.

Pour: Old Forester Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey
Proof: 86
Age: at least 4 years
Color: honey
Nose: cake frosting, light oak, banana creme
Taste: sharp vanilla, mild baking spice, polished leather
Finish: moderate length – astringent oak, semi-sweet caramel, faint licorice

Overall: Not great; not terrible. All things considered, at this same proof and price point I’d reach for Evan Williams black label. Still, there are redeemable qualities here and Old Forester should fashion a quality low-proof Kentucky Mule when called upon.

Rating: Ale 8.

Buffalo Trace Bourbon

The eponymous whiskey from the enormously popular distillery, Buffalo Trace Kentucky Straight Bourbon was once commonly found and appropriately priced. Now … not so much. Such is the state of bourbon at the onset of 2021. Is the feeding frenzy worth the fuss? Let’s find out.

Pour: Buffalo Trace Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey
Proof: 90
Age: at least 4 years
Color: gold/amber
Nose: apple pie, honey-butter, caramel drizzle
Taste: vanilla, honeysuckle, confectioners sugar
Finish: moderate length – sweet oak, lemon peel, faint spice

Overall: If it weren’t hell to acquire, I’d recommend Buffalo Trace as an ideal starter bourbon. Unfortunately, that would only prompt frustration for beginners. As is, it’s a tasty sipper with enough complexity to keep things interesting for the seasoned drinker.

Rating: Solid.

Jack Daniel’s Single Barrel Barrel Proof

However familiar your palate may be with Jack Daniel’s, it’s wildly incomplete until you’ve tasted Jack at barrel strength. I probably shouldn’t spoil this review so early, but preconceived notions be damned. This Tennessee whiskey will knock your bourbon snob socks off.

Pour: Jack Daniel’s SiB Barrel Proof 18-8417
Proof: 128.3
Age: not stated
Color: dense copper
Nose: toasted vanilla bean, English toffee, buttery oak char
Taste: caramel chews, creme brulee, thick sweet molasses
Finish: long & sticky – brown sugar, rich honey-maple, baked cinnamon

Overall: This ain’t your daddy’s Jack. Ain’t Sinatra’s either. This is intense, in-your-face, full-flavored BOURBON from the last place you might expect it. Debate classifications all you’d like, but this whiskey sports a gold label for a reason.

Rating: Michael Anthony’s bass.

Woodinville Straight Bourbon Whiskey

Washington’s Woodinville Whiskey Co. has received a fair share of positive buzz in the last year, particularly their barrel-proof selections. I’m sure I’ll get to one of those down the road, but for now it’s their 90-proof straight bourbon. I hope it’s as hefty as the bottle.

Pour: Woodinville Straight Bourbon Whiskey
Proof: 90
Age: at least 4 years
Color: amber/honey
Nose: box cornbread, bright maple syrup, sourdough
Taste: sharp vanilla, no. 2 pencil, Mrs. Dash spice blend
Finish: moderate length – mild oak, caramel candy, polished leather

Overall: I really wanted to love this whiskey, but I don’t. While I appreciate Woodinville’s dedication and grain-to-glass attention to detail, the 90-proof expression isn’t there yet. It’s distinctly youthful, but in all fairness they’re just getting started.

Rating: Crafty.

Maker’s Mark Cask Strength 20-01

As popular as Maker’s Mark may be with the general public, it often flies under the radar for whiskey enthusiasts. Its lean portfolio is possibly one reason, though it shares an expression count equivalent to Van Winkle. At least Maker’s Mark is available and affordable, right?

Pour: Maker’s Mark Cask Strength 20-01
Proof: 110.1
Age: at least 4 years
Color: rose gold
Nose: sweet vanilla, toasted oak, hazelnut coffee
Taste: bright woody spice, caramel drizzle, semisweet chocolate
Finish: moderately long – Cinnamon Red Hots, classic syrup, peppery tea

Overall: What Maker’s Mark Cask Strength lacks in maturity and complexity, it more than makes up for in character. It’s Maker’s DNA in near-pure form. Considering it’s likely 5-year KSBW (or thereabouts), there’s a lot more to love here than loathe.

Rating: It’s good.

Old Tub

A not-so-attractive name with important historical significance. Some folks call Jim Beam’s Old Tub “Booker’s Junior.” An oxymoron of sorts, but they’re not entirely wrong. Regardless, a bottled-in-bond NCF KSBW for $20. What can go wrong?

Pour: Old Tub
Proof: 100
Age: at least 4 years
Color: amber
Nose: peanut brittle, buttered corn, light baking spice
Taste: peppery vanilla, nutty caramel toffee, toasted sugar
Finish: moderate length – sharp vanilla, brisk oak, diminishing black pepper

Overall: It’s $20, better than Beam Black, and it makes a solid Old Fashioned. Knob Creek it is not, but then it’s not supposed to be. Old Tub is decent whiskey at a budget price. It also looks good sitting on a shelf next to bottles triple its price.

Rating: No complaints.