Knob Creek 12 Year

2020 was a banner year for Knob Creek bourbon. Its original 9-year age statement returned, a reasonably priced 15-year limited edition was released, and a new 12-year expression was introduced. Having just reviewed the 15-year, I thought I’d give the 12-year a go.

Pour: Knob Creek 12 Year
Proof: 100
Age: 12 years
Color: dense copper
Nose: honey-roasted peanuts, maple, orange tea
Taste: caramel-apple, brown sugar, baked cinnamon
Finish: moderately long – dark fruit, sweet charred oak, autumn spice

Overall: Possibly the most well-balanced Knob Creek expression I’ve tasted. While there’s maturity, there’s an equally present fruitiness not commonly found in Knob Creek Single Barrel selections of similar age. For $60, Knob Creek 12 is a winner.

Rating: Right on the money.

Knob Creek 15 Year

The best thing about Knob Creek limited edition releases is they’re relatively easy to find. 2020’s Knob Creek 15 was no exception. For $100 one could – and still can – purchase a 100-proof, 15-year Kentucky straight bourbon whiskey (sans sourced whiskey mystery bullshit).

Pour: Knob Creek 15 Year
Proof: 100
Age: 15 years
Color: dense copper
Nose: woody cherry, fragrant oak, Coca-Cola Classic
Taste: earthy vanilla, chewing tobacco, sweet sassafras
Finish: moderately long – singed plum, clove gum, leather

Overall: I can’t help but compare Knob Creek 15 to the slightly younger but cheaper Knob Creek 12. While I generally prefer the 12-year’s profile, I remain impressed with the 15-year’s surprising elegance. This is well-aged bourbon done right.

Rating: Mature, meticulous.

Bardstown Bourbon Co. Fusion Series No. 2

Bardstown Bourbon Co. have made a name for themselves in the last few years. Having tried several of their sourced and finished expressions, as well as their distillate and two-year maturate, I can attest to their quality. But what about a blend of both worlds? Enter Fusion.

Pour: Bardstown Bourbon Co. Fusion Series No. 2
Proof: 98.9
Age: 34 months (2-12-year KSBW)
Color: rich amber
Nose: Vanilla Tootsie Roll, roasted almonds, orange peel
Taste: light caramel, melted butter, mild spice
Finish: moderately short – toasted oak, nutty toffee, citrus

Overall: I’m torn with this bourbon. There’s a part of me that genuinely appreciates the experimentation aspect – a blend of young and old, distilled and sourced. But then, there’s nothing unique or noteworthy happening to justify Fusion’s $60 price.

Rating: Getting there.

Benchmark “Old No. 8” Bourbon

Benchmark is one of two brands acquired by Sazerac from Seagram’s in the 1980s (the other being Eagle Rare). Today, it’s distilled by Buffalo Trace and is commonly found for less than $10 in liquor stores nationwide. Sounds like a deal, right? Don’t get your hopes up just yet.

Pour: Benchmark “Old No. 8” Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey
Proof: 80
Age: 36 months
Color: straw
Nose: margarine, strawberry Greek yogurt, apple juice
Taste: canned corn, sour pears, pasteboard
Finish: not short enough – Lemon Pledge, sadness

Overall: Rarely can I not finish a bourbon. Benchmark is one such pour. Yes, it’s labeled “Kentucky straight,” but three years in oak just doesn’t cut it here. It’s thin, youthful, oddly sour, and unpleasant. If this is a benchmark of whiskey, I’m Tom Handy.

Rating: Gag Jr.

Larceny Barrel Proof B520

When Larceny Barrel Proof was first announced, whiskey fans went nuts. A barrel-proof 6-8-year wheated bourbon? Sounds like a winner, right? In a world of Pappymania, you’d think. Unfortunately, Heaven Hill has seldom shone in the wheated department. Maybe batch B520 will.

Pour: Larceny Barrel Proof Bourbon B520
Proof: 122.2
Age: NAS (reportedly 6-8 years)
Color: dense copper
Nose: toasted butterscotch, oak char, brown sugar
Taste: nutty vanilla, roasted marshmallow, black licorice
Finish: moderately long – salted peanuts, English toffee, sassafras

Overall: I hate to label this as a one-trick pony, but inevitably, that’s what Larceny Barrel Proof B520 is. Not that it’s a boring bourbon. It’s just a handful of similar notes trekking and trotting within a hefty, yet easily sippable high-ABV whiskey.

Rating: Bold Fitz.

Bulleit Blenders’ Select No. 001

Is it Four Roses or something altogether different? At this point, I’ve wasted too much of my time trying to figure out what Bulleit puts into their bottles to care. As for their Blenders’ Select No. 001, it’s a marriage of three bourbons crafted by the talented Eboni Major.

Pour: Bulleit Bourbon Blenders’ Select No. 001
Proof: 100
Age: at least 4 years
Color: copper
Nose: buttercream icing, orange creamsicle, sweet tea
Taste: fruity caramel, zesty charred oak, citrus & herbal spice
Finish: moderate length – vanilla cream soda, orange peel, nutmeg

Overall: This is one of those whiskeys that really grows on you. Initially, I was satisfied. Then I was impressed. Each time since, Bulleit Blenders’ Select has never wavered. It’s a stealthy, sharp-shooting bourbon that belongs in every enthusiast’s arsenal.

Rating: Bullseye.

Woodford Reserve Very Fine Rare Bourbon

Woodford Reserve is a brand I seldom discuss. The reason is straightforward: I’m simply not a fan of their bourbon. But when trusted friends with well-versed palates recommend a whiskey, I listen. And so, I found myself investing in Woodford Reserve’s Very Fine Rare. Here goes.

Pour: Woodford Reserve Very Fine Rare Bourbon
Proof: 90.4
Age: NAS (reportedly 4-17 years)
Color: dense copper
Nose: cast iron cornbread, floral honey, Toblerone chocolate
Taste: vanilla extract, tart oak, semisweet molasses
Finish: moderate length – caramel, coffee, smoky citrus

Overall: I’m not completely sold on this bourbon, though it’s a pleasantly fascinating, commendable head-scratcher. There’s a lot to chew on here. Woodford’s Very Fine Rare doesn’t check all the boxes I prefer, but damn if it doesn’t check some curious ones.

Rating: Intriguing.

Joseph Magnus Triple-Cask Finished Bourbon

Joseph Magnus Triple-Cask Finished Bourbon is the flagship expression of Jos. A. Magnus & Co., a DC-based brand resurrected by descendants of the historic Cincinnati whiskey wholesaler. The talented Nancy Fraley, master taster, is responsible for each blend. On deck, batch 96.

Pour: Joseph Magnus Triple-Cask Finished Bourbon no. 96
Proof: 100
Age: NAS (reportedly 12 years)
Color: rosy amber
Nose: chocolate raisins, nutty vanilla, blood orange
Taste: toasted brown sugar, ripe plum, pipe tobacco
Finish: caramel-brandy, black walnut, lingering smoky leather

Overall: Delicious. For a finished whiskey, Joseph Magnus maintains enough bourbon character to brandish its 12-year (MGP) origin. Not “over-sherried,” and gentle on the cognac influence, it’s notably complex, harmonious and balanced. Well done, Nancy.

Rating: Fraley’s Comet.

Four Roses Small Batch Select

In 2019, Four Roses debuted its first core expression since 2006, Four Roses Small Batch Select. Composed of six of the distillery’s ten signature recipes and bottled at 104 proof (NCF), it was virtually a success before hitting a single shelf. It’s 2021; let’s check in.

Pour: Four Roses Small Batch Select
Proof: 104
Age: NAS (reportedly 6-7 years)
Color: copper
Nose: fruity vanilla, citrus zest, sweet herbal tea
Taste: peppery caramel, orange peel, honey-esque oak
Finish: moderately long – frosted sugar cookies, oak char, earthy/floral spice

Overall: Filling Jim Rutledge’s shoes can’t be easy, but master distiller Brent Elliott sure makes it look that way. Granted, we’re still sipping bourbon distilled under Jim’s care, but the batch itself is on point and checks every box it should for $55.

Rating: It’s great.

Old Forester Bourbon

Old Forester is a heritage Kentucky brand that’s garnered significant attention over the last few years, primarily because of their Whiskey Row series and the exemplary work of master taster Jackie Zykan. But how does their 86-proof namesake bourbon fare? Please, allow me.

Pour: Old Forester Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey
Proof: 86
Age: at least 4 years
Color: honey
Nose: cake frosting, light oak, banana creme
Taste: sharp vanilla, mild baking spice, polished leather
Finish: moderate length – astringent oak, semi-sweet caramel, faint licorice

Overall: Not great; not terrible. All things considered, at this same proof and price point I’d reach for Evan Williams black label. Still, there are redeemable qualities here and Old Forester should fashion a quality low-proof Kentucky Mule when called upon.

Rating: Ale 8.

Buffalo Trace Bourbon

The eponymous whiskey from the enormously popular distillery, Buffalo Trace Kentucky Straight Bourbon was once commonly found and appropriately priced. Now … not so much. Such is the state of bourbon at the onset of 2021. Is the feeding frenzy worth the fuss? Let’s find out.

Pour: Buffalo Trace Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey
Proof: 90
Age: at least 4 years
Color: gold/amber
Nose: apple pie, honey-butter, caramel drizzle
Taste: vanilla, honeysuckle, confectioners sugar
Finish: moderate length – sweet oak, lemon peel, faint spice

Overall: If it weren’t hell to acquire, I’d recommend Buffalo Trace as an ideal starter bourbon. Unfortunately, that would only prompt frustration for beginners. As is, it’s a tasty sipper with enough complexity to keep things interesting for the seasoned drinker.

Rating: Solid.

Jack Daniel’s Single Barrel Barrel Proof

However familiar your palate may be with Jack Daniel’s, it’s wildly incomplete until you’ve tasted Jack at barrel strength. I probably shouldn’t spoil this review so early, but preconceived notions be damned. This Tennessee whiskey will knock your bourbon snob socks off.

Pour: Jack Daniel’s SiB Barrel Proof 18-8417
Proof: 128.3
Age: not stated
Color: dense copper
Nose: toasted vanilla bean, English toffee, buttery oak char
Taste: caramel chews, creme brulee, thick sweet molasses
Finish: long & sticky – brown sugar, rich honey-maple, baked cinnamon

Overall: This ain’t your daddy’s Jack. Ain’t Sinatra’s either. This is intense, in-your-face, full-flavored BOURBON from the last place you might expect it. Debate classifications all you’d like, but this whiskey sports a gold label for a reason.

Rating: Michael Anthony’s bass.